Saturday, October 18, 2008

Zagreb


Greetings everyone,

This post is in two parts as we returned to Zagreb after our walk. I wrote the first a few weeks ago ...


Zagreb is the most wonderful city. It was only on impulse that we decided to spend three nights here along with Grant and Karen our new Canadian friends whom we met on the build. The city is so accessible ... easy to walk or tram to any destination.


We are staying in the most amazing ‘sobe’ which I’m sure would never be allowed to take paying guests in Australia, but what an experience. I’ve added some photos of the views - rooftops, balconies, washing lines and the steep, steep, sloping wooden steps (almost like a ladder) that lead to where our friends are staying. They have a fridge and stove top so we keep our yoghurt and juice there and breakfast with them. Our room is tiny and hidden behind fig leaves and shutters but is quiet and has good air flow.


Everyone seems very friendly and helpful and on our first night we attended a concert in the Bazilika presvetog srca Isusovog. The Aachen Cathedral Choir from Germany is touring various countries and happened to be in Zagreb - it is a male choir, mostly boys, and was established 1200 years ago.


While there we met a lovely lady who invited us to join her family for lunch the next day. So John and I set off on the number 2 tram, map and address in hand to experience a most enjoyable afternoon with Zeljka (called Tony), Ivan, Marija and Petra. They welcomed us into their home and with their excellent English, conversation flowed thick and fast. We ate a delicious, home-cooked meal and after such kind hospitality, Tony insisted on driving us back and we bid farewell bearing many generous gifts. We are now thinking that after our walk we may return to Zagreb for a few more days before flying out of Budapest.


Then recently John wrote ...

Our time in Zagreb has been one of relaxation, catching our collective breaths and of wandering beautiful old Baroque streets marvelling at the architecture and format of this compact gorgeous little city. It is off the main tourist route (although this is changing) and it is easy to walk around and become familiar with its geography quite quickly. This is our second time through and we are on our way to Budapest to catch our flight to London. We came here by choice more than anything else, although another reason was the AUD has a much more favourable exchange rate with the Croatian KUNA than the EURO. So that was a more practical attraction. We were going to have to pay EU 75 each night in Brezice in our 4 star hotel which was included in our walk package.


Instead, here we have a huge downstairs room in what our hostess (Slavica) calls “an old Baroque palace” with a huge front door. It is three hundred years old and we are paying 34 EU to sleep on a sofa bed, but we have a washing machine and our own bathroom and we are 100 metres from the main square. Zagreb is a very friendly city and everybody seems to have time to sit, drink good quality cheap coffee, have a smoke (or three or four), chat, as well as work. I wonder what we are missing out on in our mad rush in life back home? Nobody works after lunch on Saturday or Sunday - everything closes. The markets are on in the mornings to buy fresh stuff and flowers to take to lunch with Mum and Dad, which nearly everybody seems to do.



There are churches everywhere in Zagreb and they are the best maintained buildings of all. Croatians are passionate folks - youngsters embracing in all the parks, national flags everywhere, and passionate about their Catholicism too. There is much renovation happening here presently every third old run-down building is being done up, so jack-hammers and trucks seem to be around every second corner.



The Croats are snappy dressers and take care in what they wear.


The lifestyle is much more agreeable and with the relaxed approach to life, the cafe scene, and the cheerful atmosphere it is a city we are loathe to leave.

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