DAY 1 (John)
Hotel Breza was quite fine - we had a lovely view from our bedroom window of the wooded hill behind the hotel. There are about 3 large hotels in the Olimio Terme complex -- all providing accommodation for the folks wanting to use the thermal pools which have magnesium carbonate which is beneficial for rhuematism and skin complaints. We used the pools for an hour or more on Tuesday as we arrived much earlier than we would have by train as we hired a taxi from Zagreb for 500 Ku. The AUD has dropped to .70 USD, .4 Sterling and .5 EUR. The ASX all ords is at 4,400, Japanese market fell 9.3% and Brazil and Russia suspended trading after 10%+ drops. Such is the lack of confidence.
The walk today was lovely - such a beautiful country. Walked through villages, woods and farms we would never normally see. Such ancient settlement and land use patterns to be seen. Saw a little viper I photographed (a very warm day). Visited an old monastery and had a lovely time. Much up and down though.
* This monastery has the oldest pharmacy in Europe - I caught a photo of a monk entering it (left hand side) carrying a wooden box full of little brown bottles -K.
SECOND DAY OF WALKING - Velbana Gorca, Gostinca to Motel Ribnik, Kezlje (Kathy)
Our hosts were fantastic at Velbana Gorca and we set off to find that the golden retriever that had followed us for two hours the previous afternoon was outside ready to continue walking with us. In the end Slava had to tie him up to prevent him from following us any further.
Lots of climbs and spectacular views as we made progress through beautiful forests. I was once again taken by the falling leaves and the sounds they made as well as watching them swirling through the air. En route we saw Martin on his tractor and waved, he drove over and invited us to his place (on top of the world) for a drink. It was very nice wine and we were joined by his wife and son Ciril as well as one or two others - no English, and no Slovenian on our part but we enjoyed our time. Kittens abounded and we showed our family photos.
We walked through many beautiful forests and John found an abandoned cottage - the forested areas must have been grazing lands generations ago.
We are staying at a motel tonight so not the personal touch. Used the free internet at the fire station (I fell down the rough concrete steps so hopefully I can walk tomorrow - as it turned out John slipped on the same steps the next morning).
SLOVENIA
As I write we are half way through our walk. We have been surprised at the planned route through many farms and vineyards - it seems as if there is a right-of-way through any land in Slovenia.
At first I noticed the sounds, especially the falling leaves. It is autumn and there are so many deciduous trees in the forests. Other sounds included children’s laughter and chatter, dogs barking, chooks, running water, birdsong and bells ... church bells ringing.
After a while I began feeling as if I was part of a game. Our children had one called ‘Journey through Europe’ and I felt I was living it especially as we were following “clues” to find our way. The number of beautiful apple trees, fully laden are amazing, as are the vineyards. There are MANY dogs, some friendly and others tied up - thankfully.
By the second day I was very aware of fairytales. John decided to investigate an abandoned cottage in one forest while I continued to walk. He took ages and I started wondering about Hansel and Gretel and the wicked witch as it was exactly the sort of place the poor children would have been lured to. This morning we passed a garden filled with huge turnips - how many will it take to pull them? Snow white and the seven dwarfs as well as ancient Sleeping Beauty castles - one can easily imagine how these stories came into being.
Today’s walking was 17 kilometres of climbing and descending. Stunning scenery and isolated forests but quite heavy going on the steep tracks. Even the “clues” described one forest path as ‘precipitous’ and warning us to take care. I’m not very good walking down steep tracks but John has been very patient and even carried my pack as well as his own so I was able to concentrate on my progress - we’re very glad to have our walking poles.
After making it through today’s route, I should be fine to finish. This area is so beautiful and we can’t help but take photos at every turn.
I don’t know that I’m writing coherently as I’m extremely tired and dinner is in 5 minutes. So until next time … dobra vecer.
Kathy
Saturday 11 October, John writes - Harvest at Klet
Our host’s son “Rok” brought us breakfast at 8am and I explained yesterday was a very hard day’s walk. He came back after the first course and invited us to spend the day assisting with grape harvest. He had very good English and simply asked us to think about. Today’s walk would apparently be harder than yesterday’s as it is a steep climb up to St Ema’s church on a high ridge above the valley - there are fifteen stations of the cross also to walk past, and fifteen kilometres in length but longer in time. We decided the harvest would be a wonderful, cultural experience for us which would never be repeated - so harvest we did!
We did not regret the time in any way. We met some very beautiful people and had such a social time picking grapes and enjoying the countryside, wine and food together with 30 friends and family of our host.
We spent a lot of time conversing with Tadeja - a lovely young Slovenian girl who has fine English (she actually has had no lessons but has learnt it by watching TV with Slovenian subtitles!). We got on very well and she was the translator and interpreter for everyone when their English escaped them We were harvesting sauvignon blanc grapes I believe, and drinking pinot noir all day - or Canadian whiskey at 10am!
We harvested in what must be one of the most beautiful grape growing sceneries in the world. Very small vineyards adjacent to beech and oak forests in high autumn colours and clear sky and 22 degrees - such a special day for us both.
Later that evening, after our final feast, our hosts sent us off with a bottle of their best and Tadeja and Rok drove us to our next accommodation.
Continuing the journey (Kathy)
After our amazing day harvesting and feasting, we decided not to follow the planned route but to find our own walk for the day. Eventually we decided on reaching St. Anton’s church, perched on a hillside, high above the village and vineyards.
What an absolutely idyllic day to follow the special harvest. Although it was foggy to start with, the air later cleared to reveal a country side covered with a patchwork of vineyards.
The day was warm and peaceful and it was a joy to be part of it with such stunning surroundings. We had a picnic lunch with us and John asked for some water from one of the small ‘gorcas’ we were walking past. Along with the water came the obligatory three glasses of wine! They too were harvesting but eating lunch when we approached - their view was down over the valley into Croatia.
Our final day’s walking was for 24 kilometres into Brezice.
This day was not as strenuous as there were fewer climbs and we walked for many k’s through meadows that farmers were being paid to leave uncultivated, and along the levy bank of the river. We had some climbs during the morning with apparently spectacular views but we were in thick fog until the early afternoon.
Brezice is a lovely town with a castle (there are many castles in this area) and once again we slept to the sound of the church bells sounding each quarter hour.
The walk has been extremely enjoyable through the most beautiful countryside and the accommodation has been excellent. There has been much ‘up-along and down-along’, as John says, and it was much more difficult than he was anticipating. At the end he told me he had his doubts I would make it!
We are now waiting for a train to Zagreb where we hope to spend the rest of the week before retuning to Budapest on Friday and flying out on Saturday.
Thank you for your e-mails - we love hearing from you as sometimes we feel such a long way, away.
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